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| (click on images for larger view)
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| Introduction |
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|  This
is the second article in a four part series about XLR connectors.
The first article, entitled "Adding An XLR Connector to Your Controller",
began by discussing the many advantages an XLR connector offers
when used with 1/32 slot car controllers. The article
then went on to provide detailed step-by-step instructions to
replace your existing controller connector(s) with an XLR connector.
This article, the second in the series, provides illustrated
step-by step instructions which show you how to add an XLR jack
to your driver stations. Note that while I've used one
of my controller hookup panels to illustrate the steps, the
same basic steps can be easily adapted to most driver's stations
which provide standard red, white and black hookups. The
existing hookups can be posts, stereo jacks (1/4" or mini),
banana jacks, or just about anything else including driver's
stations which provide multiple types of hookups. The
third article in the series, entitled "Making a Controller
Adapter - XLR to Alligator Clips" describes how
to make an adapter so you can use your controller (with XLR
connector) on tracks without an XLR jack (e.g. traditional 3
post hookups such as those on many commercial tracks). The
fourth and final article in the series, entitled "Making
a Controller Adapter - Alligator Clips to XLR"
describes how to make an adapter so you can use your controller
(with alligator clips) on tracks with an XLR jack. Both adapters
take up very little room and are a welcome addition to your
slot box.
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| Before Starting -
What Is Your Standard? |
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|  Before
proceeding with the step-by-step instructions, there is one
prerequisite to cover off. If you belong to a club planning
to use XLR connectors or race at other tracks which offer XLR
connections, you will need to wire the 3 connectors according
to an agreed upon standard. The Shoreline
Model Raceways club I belong to adopted a standard which
was already in use by the HSARC club in the greater Houston,
TX area. The accompanying picture shows which adapter
wire will be connected (soldered) to which XLR connector "pin".
If you look very closely, you will see the pin numbers embossed
in the plastic next to each solder pot.
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| Step-by-Step Instructions |
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|  The
picture to the right shows the basic components needed to fabricate
and install an XLR jack at your driver's station. To assemble
and install the XLR jack, you'll need the following tools and
materials - a soldering iron (with stand and cleaning sponge),
rosin core solder, rosin flux, a wire cutter/stripper, a small
clamp or vise, a hot glue gun, a drill with a 7/8" and
1/8" bits, a small Phillips screwdriver and a wrench.
Always wear safety glasses and follow
all manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines when using
tools. As a safety precaution, turn off and unplug your power
supply (or disconnect your battery) before proceeding.
Note: For your convenience, the components shown
throughout this how-to article are available in kit form from the SlotCarCorner Online Store.
If you prefer, pre-assembled adapters are also available for purchase. |
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|  Start
by stripping about 1/4" of sheathing from one end of all
3 wires as shown.
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|  Twist
the bare wire so it is "tight" with no strands sticking
out. Put a small amount of liquid flux on the wire and
then crimp a spade terminal connector onto the end of the wire
as shown. Repeat for the remaining two (2) wires.
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|  Here's
a little tip which I use a lot - it's a real time saver when
soldering connectors onto multiple wires. Use a quick
release clamp like the one shown to hold each of the wires in
place for soldering. Try to keep the amount of wire between
the clamp and connectors to a minimum as shown so the wires
don't "flop" all over the place when you are soldering. |
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|  Now
solder each spade connector to the wire. Haven't soldered
before (or just uncomfortable with soldering in general)?
Spade connectors are a great way to learn!! Make sure
to clean and tin your soldering iron tip before soldering each
connector. Note the position of the soldering iron tip
- it is making light contact with the “back” side of the connector
as close to the connector insulation as possible. The
solder is being fed into the "front" of the joint.
You don't need much solder and DON"T force ("push")
the solder - once the soldering iron heats up the joint, the
solder will start to "flow" (the solder will actually
get "pulled" into the joint), feed a small amount
(1/4" - 3/8") and then pull the solder away.
Wait another second or two and remove the soldering iron tip
from the back of the connector. Always let the joint cool
(set up) for several seconds before releasing it from the clamp
or moving it. |
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| Tip: If you're just
learning to solder, practice the steps described above with
the soldering iron turned off. Make sure you can perform
all of the steps without referring to this write-up before trying
it for real. |
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|  Remove
the three (3) wires from the clamp and strip away about 1/4"
of sheathing from the other end of each wire. Wrap the
wire strands tightly as shown. |
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|  Now
use your soldering iron to "tin" the end of each wire.
Apply some liquid flux to the end of each wire. Make sure
your soldering iron tip is clean and apply a small drop of solder
to the tip. Touch the tip to the bare wire - the solder
should "flow" from the soldering iron tip to the wire
as shown. Don't overdue it - you want just a thin coating
of solder.
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|  Now
use a quick release clamp to hold the XLR jack securely as shown.
Soldering the wires to the jack's solder pots will be MUCH easier
if you have both hands free.
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|  Before
soldering each wire, apply some liquid flux to each of the solder
pots as shown. |
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|  Recall
the pinout configuration our club uses is 1 - black; 2 - white
and 3 - red. If you/your club decide on a different pinout
configuration, be sure to adjust these instructions accordingly.
You can solder the wires to the corresponding solder pots in
any order. I started with the white wire (pot #2) since I am
left-handed. The tinned end of the white wire was
dabbed with some liquid flux and inserted into the solder pot
labeled "2" and soldered as shown in the accompanying
picture. If desired, you can then reposition the fitting
in the clamp to facilitate soldering the next wire. |
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| Tip: Soldering the
tinned wire into the solder pot is not difficult; however, figuring
out how to best position the tip of your soldering iron so it
makes contact with BOTH the solder pot housing and tinned wire
can be a bit tricky. It's a good idea to work through
this before actually applying the solder. |
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| Tip: If you didn't
put too much solder on the end of the wire when you tinned it
(and you're using roughly 14 gauge wire to begin with), the
tinned wire end should slip snugly into the solder pot.
However, you'll still wish you had 3 hands to solder this joint
- one to hold the wire in position (it has a tendency to droop
if you don't), one to hold your soldering iron and one to hold
your solder and feed it into the joint. I "cheat"
here by using one hand to hold the wire in position and then
use the other hand to hold the soldering iron. Touch the
tip of the soldering iron to your solder to pickup a small drop
and then solder the joint. The flux on the wire and in
the solder pot will draw the solder off the tip of the soldering
iron into the joint. |
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|  Once
the solder joint for the white wire has cooled, apply some liquid
flux to the next solder pot (#1 in the picture) and the tinned
end of the black wire. Insert the tinned end of the black
wire into the solder pot labeled "1" and solder the
joint.
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|  Just
one more wire to go (the red one in my case)! Follow the
procedure described above for the white and black wires to solder
the red wire to solder pot #3 as shown.
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|  The
XLR jack is now ready for installation in your driver's station. |
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|  Here's
a picture of the driver's station "before" installing
the XLR jack. The XLR jack will be mounted just to the
right of the driver's station. |
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|  Start
by determining where you want to mount the jack. Mark
the center of the hole and drill the mounting hole. If
you are using one of the XLR jack's included in a Slot Car Corner kit, the hole should be 7/8" in
diameter.
Caution: BEFORE drilling any holes, check under/behind the
driver's station to ensure there are no obstructions such as
wires. Adjust the position of the mounting hole as required. |
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|  Look
closely at the XLR jack housing - you will see 3 small half-round
protrusions (2 are shown in the accompanying picture - the third
is hidden "behind" the jack) and one larger protrusion
(shown on front of accompanying picture) which corresponds to
the release button.
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|  Mark
the area around the hole's circumference where additional material
will need to be removed to provide clearance for the protrusions
on the XLR jack. Use a small file or Dremel to carefully
remove this material. |
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|  Work
slowly and use the XLR jack to test the fit frequently.
Try not to remove any more material than necessary - particularly
where holes for the machine screws which secure the jack will
be drilled. |
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|  Make
sure the jack sits flush with the driver's station surface before
proceeding. If you used a piece of tape to markup the opening
for the jack, remove it before proceeding.
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|  Using
a 1/8" drill bit, drill mounting holes through the surface
of your driver's station using the mounting holes in the jack
as a template. Secure the XLR jack using machine screws
as shown.
Caution: BEFORE drilling any holes, check under/behind the
driver's station to ensure there are no obstructions. |
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|  In
addition to securing the jack with screws, it is a good idea
to run a bead of hot glue around the jack where it protrudes
from the underside of the driver's station. Be careful
NOT to put any glue around the wide protrusion which houses
the push button release mechanism (at the "top" of
the jack in the accompanying picture). |
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|  The
three (3) wires from the XLR jack will be connected to the corresponding
wires/posts on the underside of the controller hookup panel.
For this particular setup, the spade terminals attached to the
end of each XLR jack wire will be inserted between the corresponding
post and metal washer. Your controller hookup panel design
may differ - if so, adjust the remaining steps to accommodate
your setup. For example, it may be easier to solder the
end of each wire leading from the XLR connector directly to
the corresponding driver’s station post. |
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|  Carefully
loosen the nuts which secure each of the hookup posts to the
panel base. Loosen each nut 2-3 turns to allow sufficient
clearance for the spade terminals to be inserted between the
base of the post and metal washer (if present) on the underside
of the panel. |
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|  Connect
the first spade connector to the corresponding post by sliding
it between the base of the post and washer (if present) on the
underside of the panel as shown. Hold the spade terminal
in place and carefully re-tighten the nut which secures the
post in place. Repeat for the remaining two (2) terminals. |
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|  Once
all three (3) XLR jack wires have been connected to the controller
hookup panel, they should look something like this. Again,
you may have to use a different method to connect the wires
(e.g. solder directly to the posts) depending on how your existing
driver’s stations are configured. |
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| Your
XLR jack is now ready for use! |
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| Summary |
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| There you have it!! This is a relatively
easy project (it should take about an hour to complete) and
the finished XLR jack is a welcome addition to any driver's
station.
Note: For your convenience, the
components shown in this how-to article are available in kit form from the SlotCarCorner Online Store.
If you prefer, pre-assembled adapters are also available for purchase.
Remember to check out the other XLR-related articles in this
how-to series listed below:
Copyright © 2006 by Slot Car Corner L.L.C.
- All Rights Reserved.
Copyright © 2006 by Steve Sawtelle – All
Rights Reserved.
Copyright © 2006 by Slot Car Illustrated.
Used With Permission.
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