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(click on images for larger view)
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Introduction
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This is the third article in a four part series about XLR connectors.
The first article, entitled "Adding An XLR Connector to Your Controller",
began by discussing the many advantages an XLR connector offers
when used with 1/32 slot car controllers. The article
then went on to provide detailed step-by-step instructions to
replace your existing controller connector(s) with an XLR connector.
The second article, entitled "Adding An XLR Connector to Your Driver Stations",
provides illustrated step-by step instructions which show you
how to add an XLR jack to your driver stations. This article,
the third in the series, will show you how to fabricate an adapter
like the one shown which will quickly and easily convert an
XLR controller connector to 3 alligator clips which can be connected
to any driver's station with traditional 3 post hookups. The
fourth and final article in the series, entitled "Making
a Controller Adapter - Alligator Clips to XLR"
describes how to make an adapter so you can use your controller
(with alligator clips) on tracks with an XLR jack. Both adapters
take up very little room and are welcome additions to your slot
box. |
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| Before Starting - What Is Your Standard? |
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Before proceeding with step-by-step instructions, there is one
prerequisite to cover off. If you belong to a club planning
to use XLR connectors or race at other tracks which offer XLR
connections, you will need to wire the 3 connectors according
to an agreed upon standard. The Shoreline
Model Raceways club I belong to adopted a standard which
was already in use by the HSARC
club in the greater Houston, TX area. The accompanying
picture shows which adapter wire will be connected (soldered)
to which XLR connector "pin". If you look very
closely, you will see the pin numbers embossed in the plastic
next to each solder pot. |
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| Step-by-Step Instructions |
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The accompanying picture shows the basic components needed to
fabricate the controller adapter. To assemble the adapter,
you'll need the following tools and materials - a soldering
iron (with stand and cleaning sponge), rosin core solder, rosin
flux, a wire cutter/stripper, and a small clamp or vise.
Always wear safety glasses and follow
all manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines when using
tools.
Note: For your convenience, the high-quality
components shown in this how-to article are available in kit form from the SlotCarCorner Online Store. If
you prefer, pre-assembled adapters are also available for purchase. |
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Start by stripping about 1/4" of sheathing from one end
of all 3 wires as shown. |
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|  Now use your soldering iron
to "tin" the end of each wire. Apply some liquid
flux to the end of each wire. Make sure your soldering
iron tip is clean and apply a small drop of solder to the tip.
Touch the tip to the bare wire - the solder should "flow"
from the soldering iron tip to the wire as shown. |
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|  Soldering the wires to the solder pots
will be MUCH easier if you have both hands free. A quick
release clamp like the one shown will hold the plastic fitting
which houses the solder pots securely while you position and
solder each wire. Be careful not to apply to much clamping
pressure to the fitting. |
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|  Before soldering each wire, apply some
liquid flux to the solder pot (see picture) and the tinned end
of the wire. |
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|  Recall the pinout configuration our club
uses is 1 - black; 2 - white and 3 – red (again, yours may be
different – if so, adjust the instructions accordingly).
You can solder the wires to the corresponding solder pots in
any order - I started with the red wire (pot #3).
The tinned end of the red wire was inserted into the solder
pot labeled "3" and soldered as shown in the accompanying
picture. If desired, you can then reposition the fitting
in the clamp to facilitate soldering the next wire. |
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|  Once the solder joint for
the red wire has cooled, apply some liquid flux to the next
solder pot (#2 in the picture) and the tinned end of the white
wire. Insert the tinned end of the white wire into the
solder pot labeled "2" and solder the joint. |
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|  Just one more wire to go
(the black one in my case)! Follow the procedure described
above for the red and white wires to solder the black wire to
solder pot #1 as shown. |
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|  After soldering the 3 wires
to the XLR connector solder pots, it should look something like
this. |
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|  Use a pair of wire cutters to trim the
other ends of the 3 wires to the same length as shown. |
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|  Now insert the 3 wires through the plastic
XLR cover as shown. Make sure to insert the wires in the
proper direction and use care when working the wires through
the small opening in the narrow end of the cover. |
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Place the sleeve over the 3 wires and slide it up to the plastic
fitting as shown. Be sure the "U" shaped cutout
in the sleeve is aligned with the tab on the fitting as shown
(see arrow). The sleeve will prevent the wires from shifting
and serves as a strain relief once the XLR connector is fully
assembled. |
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|  Now
slide the plastic fitting and sleeve inside the metal XLR connector
housing. The inside of the metal housing has an alignment
keyway which prevents the fitting/sleeve from being inserted
incorrectly. Note the relationship of the "U"
shaped cutout and tab with the release lever on the metal housing.
You may have to wiggle the fitting/sleeve slightly to align
it properly with the keyway inside the housing.
Tip: Holding the metal housing
so the release lever is facing downward while inserting the
plastic fitting and sleeve will sometimes make it easier to
insert the fitting/sleeve all the way into the metal housing. |
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|  Once aligned, push the fitting/sleeve
as far up into the metal housing as it will go. |
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|  Thread the plastic cover onto the metal
housing taking care not to over-tighten it (hand tighten only...). |
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|  The completed XLR connector should look
like the picture to the right. Depending on the wire gauge
you are using, it may not be possible to thread the plastic
cover all the way onto the metal housing. This is OK -
again, hand tighten only! |
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|  Next, use a pair of wire
strippers to remove about 1/2" of sheathing from the end
of each wire as shown. |
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|  Slide the protective boots
for the alligator clips over the corresponding wires AND make
sure they are oriented as shown.
IMPORTANT:
Don't forget this step - once you solder the alligator clips
to the wire, there's no easy way to get the protective boots
on if you forget!! |
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|  Insert one of the wires into
an alligator clip. Try to ensure some (not necessarily
all) of the wire strands pass through the indented tab as shown.
This will make is easier to solder the clip to the wire.
Turn the clip over and spread/flatten remaining strands to make
as much contact with the inside of the alligator clip as possible. |
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| Reminder: Before proceeding,
make sure the protective boots for the alligator clips have
not slipped off the wires and they are oriented properly (refer
to the earlier picture)!
 Apply liquid flux inside and outside
the alligator clip where the wire strands make contact - make
sure to flux the bare wire strands as well. Use a clamp
or set of "helping hands" to hold the wire and clip
in place. Make sure the soldering iron tip is clean.
Solder the wire to the alligator clip - note the clip and wire
are very effective "heat sinks" (they draw heat away
from where you are trying to solder) so it may take a while
before the solder will flow depending on the output of your
soldering iron. Repeat the previous step and this step
for the remaining wires. |
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|  Once the alligator clips have cooled,
slide the protective boots up over them as shown (you did remember
to put the boots over the wires during an earlier step, right?). |
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|  Your controller adapter is now complete
and ready for use!! |
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| Summary |
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| There you have it!! This is a relatively
easy project (about 30 minutes) and the finished adapter is
a great addition to your slot box or just to have handy if your
track’s driver stations have XLR connectors.
Note: For your convenience,
the high-quality components shown in this how-to article are
available in kit form from the SlotCarCorner Online Store.
If you prefer, pre-assembled adapters are also available for purchase.
Remember to check out the other XLR-related articles in this
series listed below:
Copyright © 2006 by Slot Car Corner L.L.C.
- All Rights Reserved.
Copyright © 2006 by Steve Sawtelle – All
Rights Reserved.
Copyright © 2006 by Slot Car Illustrated.
Used With Permission.
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