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  #16  
Old 02-11-2007, 08:24 AM
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deltart deltart is offline
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Default 200uF absolute minimum

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlotFiend View Post
Come on guys read the post. Remember the original board had two lots of capacitors. 2 100uF surface mount, then the additional 220uF Blue capacitor. When that was removed you still had 200uF left. When you remove the new 470uF capacitor there is nothing left.
Recap to make sure we still understand what we are saying:

0 uF: chip does not work on a Digital track (but does it now work on analog?)
200uF: chip does work on a Digital track for "n" cars (4 so far for sure)
420uF: chip does work on a Digital track for "8" cars (8 cars video YouTube Titus)
470uF: chip does work on a Digital track for "8" cars (Ninco specs)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejag View Post
Deltart, are you saying you removed the cap completely from the car? that you are no longer using it as part of the chip??
Yes but unfortunately I only have 4 of those "modded" chips and 3 controllers. So I was stuck with 4 cars on track and no car ID going past #3. With the free chip of the Console replacement program and 3 more from a 2nd Conversion Set I intend buying I should end up with 8 chips and 6 controllers to find out when and where 200uF "modded chips" fail on a Ninco N lay-out.
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2007, 03:00 PM
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NINCO1 NINCO1 is offline
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Gentlemen,
The primary purpose of the capacitor is to ensure and regulate current flow through the chip when the car rides over the "dead" strips on the LC's.
Some very smart digital electronic engineers designed this system, and "bean counters" certainly don't like to throw components in just for the sake of it, or to "hiss-off" guys who want to put chips in Scaley F-1 cars.....
Please keep in mind that people who experiment (and there's nothing wrong with that) and make blanket statements that others will surely follow.... are not going to be in your corner if there's a failure.... "It worked for me" will be the answer, and that may be true!
So let me say again.... there's nothing wrong with wanting to experiment, but experiments may not be as successful as you think in the long term.
I'm not "bashing" anyone with this post.... my concern is for the non experimentor who may not be quite a savvy around electronics, and especially with a soldering iron where surface mounted components and ic's are concerned.
I'm just trying to remind people that N-Digital wasn't developed overnight, and with everything being electronic, (through the rails), every component on that chip has a realistic and tested purpose.

I cannot emphasize enough, that although removing the capacitor does not appear to have any negative impact on the system; any modification to the chip will void the warranty.

Think Red!
Bob/NINCO1
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2007, 04:03 PM
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Question Quick question Bob...

One quick question Bob....if I solder the leads from the motor to the chip instead of using the little plastic do-hickies, then for whatever reason have to remove them and de-solder the holes on the chip, does that void the warrenty? Just wondering ....thanks

Tbrus
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2007, 07:14 PM
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I wish we didn't have to solder the leads into the chip, but the "pegs" to hold the motor wires in place are almost useless. If the car has A LOT of room inside then the pegs will work ok, if you have to squeeze the chip in just a little the pegs can get pushed out even in a Ninco car. I would guess it voids the warranty, but there isn't much choice IMHO .

I got two of the new chips in today and I think that design is even worse for chipping cars since you can't remove the new capacitor unless you put something back in its place. Which I don't think is in my ability to do at this time.

The whole you can chip ANY car is somewhat of a misnomer in my opinion. Even the manual says the chips are only made to work with Ninco cars and they can't be held responsible for what might happen to other cars. I don't understand why the system makes chipping ANY car a big selling point, but puts the above statement in the manual. Though I have chipped 3 Scaley GT40s, a Carrera GTO, a Carerra 69 Stocker, a FLY Coda Lunga 512, 2 Ninco Rally cars,a Ninco Gulf Mosler, a Ninco Honda NSX "Mugen" and a Ninco BWM M3 GTR. Some took 10 minutes, some took an hour.

Now if only the whole PWM thing didn't make the Flys overheat.

Wes

Last edited by Jankomatic; 02-12-2007 at 07:18 PM.
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  #20  
Old 02-12-2007, 08:20 PM
BSWAN72 BSWAN72 is offline
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Wes,

You might try shortening the pegs with scissors. This will prevent the pegs from getting pushed out when pushing the chip against the chassis.

Best regards,
Brian
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  #21  
Old 02-12-2007, 10:33 PM
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Default Rotate the pegs or rotate the chip but rotate something.

Hi Wes,
If pressure to close the car results in the pegs being pushed out of the chip just reverse the pegs and push them in upside down or just mount the chip upside down. That way the pressure from the car body keeps the pegs in place (as they are now upside down!!!)
Regards,
Johan
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  #22  
Old 02-13-2007, 05:42 AM
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jank,
the statement about chipping "any" car has been gone over many times, and you have to make the assumption that it means "any car that the chip will fit into". The System is designed primarily for NINCO cars, you're right.... just as other manufacturers designed for their products.... NINCO just went further by opening up their system for other cars as well. But Please don't get hung up on this with specifics.
As far as soldering goes, it will void the warranty. Too many people are not skilled around surface mount components. The pegs eliminate having to solder no matter what car of whatever brand is used.... period! Although those pegs are tight if pushed in all the way, "clipping" off the excess seems to be a good idea.
The presoldered wires on the "front" of the chip that go to the slotguide are long enough to reach practically any car (here we go again..... let's be reasonable), so they shouldn't have to be removed, and longer wires shouldn't have to be soldered to the chip.
Bottom line is this: Don't remove components and don't solder the chip!

Think Red!
Bob/NINCO1
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  #23  
Old 02-13-2007, 01:01 PM
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Default Need to update with latest info

Quote:
Originally Posted by deltart View Post
Recap to make sure we still understand what we are saying:

0 uF: chip does not work on a Digital track (but does it now work on analog?)
200uF: chip does work on a Digital track for "n" cars (4 so far for sure)
420uF: chip does work on a Digital track for "8" cars (8 cars video YouTube Titus)
470uF: chip does work on a Digital track for "8" cars (Ninco specs)
Based on further analysis done on another Slot Forum we need to add "cars with lights" and "higher RPM motors" in the mix.

So the table now looks like:

200uF: should be fine for F1/open wheel cars with NO LIGHTS and NO HIGH RPM MOTORS
470uF: ANY cars with LIGHTS and/or high rpm motors. (Fly issue solved???)

So it seems that the new beefier 470uF chips should fully address issues like missed LC's and or motors overheating.

And yes, Ninco Bob is right (he'll probably add to this "as always" LOL), as it fully explains why I did not encounter any issues with 200uF as I "only chip F1 cars" which do not have lights and which do not have any motors producing more than 20,000 rpm.

From where I am sitting right now it looks like we are getting real close to getting a bullet proof Ninco N Digital system:
1) New Power Console version 105 (true AM and PM modes)
2) New higher capacity chips (470uf versus420uf)
3) Double straight lane changers (when released down the road)

And if Ninco can figure out what happened to the faulty "time only fuel agorithm" (hopefully only with version 104???) then we could end up with an almost perfect system before summer "pool season" hits us!!!

For those of you with the older 420uf "blue capacitor" chips and who chip cars with lights and or high rpm motors I will gladly buy them from you in exchange for the new 470uF chips (my F1 cars are very happy with low "lite" light 200uF Ninco chips)
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  #24  
Old 02-13-2007, 04:53 PM
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Default America, land of opportunity... for those who act FAST

Quote:
Originally Posted by deltart View Post
...
For those of you with the older 420uf "blue capacitor" chips and who chip cars with lights and or high rpm motors I will gladly buy them from you in exchange for the new 470uF chips (my F1 cars are very happy with low "lite" light 200uF Ninco chips)
I just placed an order for 18 of the 1st release version of the Ninco blue capacitor chips.
So the offer above is for the time being tabled. Some F1 cars are so tight to convert that once the chip is inside I do not really want to remove it so permanent chipping for these cars will just do fine.

Tomorrow is Valentine's Day. I still need to figure out how to tell the wife I spent $390.42 on 18 chips and $74.95 on a pitlane and last week $382.40 on 10 F1 cars and most of all that I am wasting tons of time reading and writing stuff on SCI and that I currently have no clue what to get her for $20.00 that might look good on her (LOL).
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  #25  
Old 02-13-2007, 05:50 PM
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Johann where did you order the 1st edition chips from? The ones I just got in from Hotslots132 were the new kind.

Wes
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  #26  
Old 02-13-2007, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankomatic View Post
Johann where did you order the 1st edition chips from? The ones I just got in from Hotslots132 were the new kind.

Wes
Hi Wes,
PM'ed you the details.
Johan

Edited: OOPS, I forgot to mention that I bought ALL the chips they had in stock. Sorry!!!

Last edited by deltart; 02-14-2007 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Added more content
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