Thanks again Bob for the adapters. I'd swear that you sent one pack too many of the GM-2 ... anyway I have fitted the 1/32 GM-1 adapter to my new Lady Luck Charger, which had a fair amount of guide wobble and up-and-down slop (like the other Chargers I've had) so I did it straight away and put the brushes aside for the Mustang I have with a standard Pioneer guide.
I took a couple of photos of the conversion after the guide was fitted but before the braids and wiring are done. The new piece makes it more stable and avoids distortion. I still had some trouble with the screw though and I might well remove it later if I glue everything in permanently. Although I countersunk the hole the screw head is still a little proud of the GM-1. I am using a spacer (cut from Evergreen styrene tubing) so it doesn't rub.
The SICH10 in place after considerable filing to round the shape:
Sorry for the out of focus photos, they were taken with my phone, which does not have a flash. This one shows the guide in place from the top:
I just have to cut the ends off the wires, strip them back, and install eyelets into the guide now:
This one shows the washer from the SICH10 in place, plus it also shows how I filed the inside of the Pioneer guide housing to improve clearance:
This is a bad shot but it shows the washer firmly seated on top of the GM-1. Note the distortion in the GM-1 around the screw. I'm not sure why this happened:
Another angle, again an attempt to show how I filed the housing:
Note the rounder profile of the SICH10 after considerable filing with a flat file to gain a rounder shape. I also filed the underneath of the tail end of the guide flag to ensure chassis clearance. Note the small washer that I made from tubing, and the fact that I had to use a piece of cheese to get the guide to sit up straight for the photo. Don't worry, I will clean any cheese off before track testing!
To enlarge the chassis file I progressed through a series of SAE drill bits. The largest size is so big you have to be careful not to crack the thin wall of the guide mount. It will allow the GM-1 and the Slot.It guide washer to seat correctly.
Thanks again Bob for a great product. I will finish this one sometime soon. The slop from the guide is gone now. When I set up the wires I will make sure they are properly tensioned so as to allow the guide to spring back to its proper position by taping the front loom to the chassis.
This conversion is recommended to anyone who owns a Pioneer slot car, a small screwdriver, and a set of drill bits.
Last edited by Burglar; 06-10-2012 at 02:25 AM.
Reason: add photos
Is there any reason you're not replacing the whole DPR plug system with single lengths of wire to the motor?
Only reason being the rubbish soldering iron I have has developed some problems. I might have another go at cleaning the tip, hopefully I can get it to work properly.
I was thinking tonight I should just unsolder the whole system and put it aside in case anyone needs it. Seems a shame to cut off those end clips as for sure they are almost impossible to solder back on without softening the brass. I have plenty of good lead wire, NSR I think. I just need to solder it to the motor. i am also thinking I will change the pinion to a NSR 7112 at the same time, and install a 1936 Slot.It spur, as I think I have a spare one somewhere, with a view to getting a 1934 spur as well and swapping them for specific tracks. Seems like a better setup than a 7113/1936 combo (which many people use, and I have used in other cars) in terms of flexibility. Much easier to change a spur than a pinion, especially when the motor is glued in!
I've also squeezed some CB Design wheels under there, 15x8s on the front and 15x11s on the back. Used 50mm Slot.It axles on the front and 48mm Slot.It axles on the back to suit the hubless wheels. NSR/Slot.It gear combo, spacers, new wiring, and brushes and eyelets still to be fitted, just making sure the guide conversion and wheels all fit. I had to make some modifications to the inside of the rear wheel arch lip and the interior (the side parts hidden from view) to get the 15x11s under there. Testing it on the SCC set up block I do need to drop the guide a bit with a spacer, and/or use lower profile front tyres (currently 1404Ys).
Well all that tyre will certainly lower the centre of gravity ... the wheels are quite a bit heavier!
I have quite a few bits and pieces laying around, sometimes I used them in different cars. All of the components I removed are still in mint condition, so they can be sold as spare parts if someone wants them. I really do prefer the Slot.It guide though. I use them on not just Pioneer but also Scalextric and Monogram, and I'm working on fitting them to a Carrera Willys and my SCX Cuda and Escort. I also prefer the reliability of a simple wire from the guide to the motor. I have found that pulling the cars apart to fit weights etc when tuning the connectors to the chip (which I don't use) can be fragile. Best to pull it out and put it aside in case someone wants it, rather than breaking it like I've done on a couple of others.
I also had a chassis chip door that already had the little plug removed, so I used that and just lifted the whole harness out once I had removed the solder on the motor end. No point wrecking a good one. Like many people I find that the door is a good place to add weight if the little plug is gone. It's a nice flat area and you can even drop the weight out and adjust it without taking the body off.
This is the eighth Pioneer car I've bought. Others are Bullitt Mustang (x2), Bullitt Charger, Bengal Charger, Black & Gold Mustang, Jerry Titus Mustang, Stealth Charger. The Bengal Charger chassis ended up under a Carrera Torino but if you start selling Charger chassis separately I'd like to put a chassis under the Bengal body again.
I finished fitting new wires to the Charger, so the chassis is all done:
The white styrene at the front is square rod cut to length with a piece of .030" card on top with a notch for the wires to pass through to the guide. This is just a brace for the front axle mounts that I have added as a precaution against any poor driving crashing me into the corner and popping an axle out or, even worse, breaking an axle mount. It is glued to both axle mounts and original plastic bushes as well as to the floor, with the two styrene pieces joined by both CA and Tamiya liquid polystyrene cement. It shouldn't budge. The rear bushes were replaced with Slot.It only so that I could use the SCC bushing alignment kit to get it just right, with the rear bushings glued in with CA and the motor hot glued in. I changed front tyres to 20x10 Slot.It zero grips.
It's just the 7.5mm NSR angelwinder pinion and the 19mm Slot.It spur. It's the same combination that Rick1776 uses, I just took the idea from him. I tried his 7113/1936 combination on a couple of previous Pioneer cars which worked well (and gives the same ratio as the optional pinion that you provide with some of your newer cars, but which I have never received, I guess all of mine were older stock, although this one was unboxed and didn't come with a parts bag). The sound of the car is completely different though, which I take to be the specific mesh of these two gear sizes. I have also run a 6.5mm 13T with the same spur in a Scalextric Mustang that I installed a QS into; that sounds completely different again, much more like the plastic gear sound. The NSR pinion has a high pitched whistle, and is immediately recognizable. It is not binding up or anything though. The Scaley car did have too tight a mesh at first, and that had a real supercharger whine in it, but I moved the motor forward slightly to improve the mesh (it was burning the colour off the gears!)
The Charger is a refinement on that idea. It has the NSR 7112 pinion, which I can combine with the 1936 spur for the standard 3:1 ratio or swap in the 1934 pinion for a 2.83:1 ratio, whereas the 13/36 combo gives a 2.77:1 ratio. Of course if I want to go higher I can swap to a 1932 for a 2.67 ratio, or for a lower ratio go to the 1938 for a 3.17:1. Remembering the slightly larger tyre diameter though (20.7mm Super Tire vs 20.52mm for the new 1901R Super Tire for Pioneer wheels), I'd say the ratio with the 1934 set would be as high as the 13/36 option. I have found that the 13/36 ratio has gone really well even on a shorter track. The track I race on tends to not be so rewarding with a very torquey punch out of a corner onto the main straight, and this ratio calms it down a little bit, whereas it gets a little extra speed at the end of the long sweeper just before it, so basically I am coming in to corner a little smoother. But that's all academic though as I made the mistake of pushing the 6.5mm pinion on too far on that motor and thus I can't change ratios in the Scalextric car unless I get a 1938 spur. The 13T pinion doesn't give much room to move in term of going for a lower ratio.
Well, first time out with this car tonight and it absolutely killed it. Fastest lap time 7.99 secs on a track where anything under 9 seconds is considered a fast lap. This is probably the fastest car around the track besides a Slot.It that we ran on it once. The first time anyone has run in the 7s for a long time. It's lucky that I seem to have just hit on the right combination of parts. My old Bengal Charger (box stock) was pretty fast around the track but I don't think it ever got into the 8s. The big urethane tyres and the front end set up must have done the trick because the motor and gear ratio is standard spec. It was a second faster around the track than my black Mustang but I think I need to go for a lower gear ratio in that, back to a 12/36 (it is 13/36).
The guide set up was really good, totally non-problematic.