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  #1  
Old 07-29-2015, 08:44 AM
cdtanner cdtanner is offline
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Default BRM 512M Setup Tips?

Does any one have any set up tips for running the BRM Ferrari 512M or other BRM metal chassis cars on a wood track?

Thanks.

Chris
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  #2  
Old 07-29-2015, 11:09 AM
ModelTrainGuy ModelTrainGuy is offline
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Default Well not really set up tips ...

I am still feeling my way around with my sample ...


AND .. I'm not a go-fast racer kind of dude (I'm more interested in them being pretty) so I won't know all the go-fast tricks...


But Running Good is important to me , and what I can say is


1. If you are running on wood (MDF) track, with the "light spray goo" (glue )
You have to do the sponge tires for the rear. The 917 runs the same tire...
The car will hook up and run on sponge. I did not find the rubber slicks to be at all useful on my regional track. But the Sponge works.


Now, with that said, I would not use the kit supplied inserts in the available 917/512 sponge wheel/tire, as once you use those sweet trim rings that come with the kit... You will never get insert out of the wheel ... when the spongebob tires wear down and you want to install new sponge tires w/ the insert


Looks like there are a set of inserts without the trim ring, that are forthcoming, so I'm waiting on those.


For now, you run sponge on the 512, with a 917 insert, or without any ...


2. Then my "techno-finding"...The front axle towers, while adjustable for height are cool ...
They are also plastic ... And as such, one does not want to break them tightening them down ...


It is imperative that they be perfectly aligned, or the slightest degree of "offset" will cause front axle binding . This is true of any such design (like Scaleauto's ) But here , I am finding that once set , and reasonably snugged down, torque supplied by the front axle, with its tires touching as the car swooshes through turns ...causes movement of the towers, and binding of the front wheels ...


I want to tell the Commissioner, that the stoopid towers need to be METAL, so once aligned they can be TORQUED DOWN ...but with the current set up ... I'm thinking epoxy might be the way ?


Open to suggestions and other experiences ...

Last edited by ModelTrainGuy; 07-29-2015 at 11:11 AM.
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2015, 07:17 AM
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Scaleracing Scaleracing is offline
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Default Racing inserts now available for 512.

The one piece racing inserts are now available for the 512M. Similar in design to the 917 inserts these are a one piece part.
A better solution for those racing with BRM sponge tires.
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  #4  
Old 07-30-2015, 07:21 AM
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Default Regarding axle uprights.

Please do not clamp the brass bushings into the towers this action either distorts the bushing binding the front axle. Or strips out the alignment screws in the towers.
You do not need to clamp these parts in place, just very lightly snug them to get exact ride height desired then back off about 1/64 of a turn.
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2015, 09:54 AM
ModelTrainGuy ModelTrainGuy is offline
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Default But that Not What I'm Talkin Bout ...

The screws that attach the axle to the towers through the bottom of the chassis ...

They have to be tight enough to hold the towers in place. Because the slightest movement, causes the axle to bind. But one has to be concerned with over tightening them,lest one break the tower !

Would not be a problem ... if they were AL -YOU -MIN- E- EUM, like the Scaleauto versions ...

Not the screws that control axle height ...

I have found like I said up top... that because one cannot really torque down on these screws ,and lock the towers in alignment... They go out of alignment and cause front axle binding ..

512 Racers, check the rotation of your front wheels , after a hard day of racin ' ...

See if they roll smoothly ...

BTW ... I am all over the 512 inserts. I'm thinking I can use them on Carrera 512S's I convert to run on commercial tracks ...
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2015, 12:11 PM
monquispot monquispot is offline
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Chris. Setup for a smooth wood track is much like a slot.it car.

Glue the rear axle bushings in place, use something that' does not make a very strong bond, you may want to remove the bushings later.

Probably blue loctite is appropriate for the screws that hold things to the chassis plate. Good screwdrivers, those are the ones that actually fit the screws, are a must.

Set the front end so the weight is carried by the tires. First set it so all the weight is on the braids then adjust the axle down just to the point the tires are loaded. The braids will last longer and you won't get the train track clack-clack....clack-clack at every track joint.

On a smooth track you don't much need the suspension to work. The two larger brass screws adjust the spring tension, I would start with the springs set soft. The two smaller brass screws adjust the amount of available movement for the suspension, I would tighten those to just snug then back off 1/2 to 1 full turn. Test run. Tighten the spring screws by a full turn, Test run. Tighten....etc. Likely you will find that with the springs set soft the car feels easy to drive but as the springs get tighter the lap times drop then as the springs get tighter than that the car feels faster but the lap times don't reflect that.....call that the 'excitement' point. When the car looks like it's going fast while being passed by cars that look slow.
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2015, 12:16 PM
monquispot monquispot is offline
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Also you really don't need much body movement. Snug the three screws, just snug, grip the barrel of the screwdriver in two fingers and snug. Then back off about a half turn or so.
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2015, 03:16 PM
cdtanner cdtanner is offline
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Default

Thanks for your help guys.
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2015, 02:14 AM
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Default I have many hours on this set up.

I understand what you are talking about now regarding the front axle uprights. But honestly we have not seen issues here. I tighten down the screws while holding pressure on the front axle this tends to align the uprights. Then I set ride height and slightly back off the allen screw to prevent front axle bind. It works for me.
Not seen the uprights come loose either, only thing I have seen in a 6 hour Endurance race was the guide post screw back out. I Loctite ( blue ) this screw.

I will certainly keep an eye on the uprights to see if an issue here but to date no problems. I also fit the guide wires above the axle not in the channels in the uprights.

Guide needs to be shimmed unless running on bumpy track ( take out the spring )

Car for me that is assembled with little movement acts loose, slides more. Loosen screws on body and chassis and the car gets tippy, tight and is garder to drive fast. At Buena Park I found little movement made a more driveable car.

Usually find covering screws that potentially can fall out and short the track prevents them backing out. But we do allow thread locker to also help that.

Every Track is different, plus some like a tight car other prefer the control a looser car can give. This is part of running a BRM that make it fun.

At National Events we will not allow modified parts but you can straighten parts if bent or misaligned.

Last edited by Scaleracing; 07-31-2015 at 08:21 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2015, 09:16 PM
zipdrive zipdrive is offline
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Read the BRM booklet that comes with the 512 about handling adjustments. Look at the track you run on. The grip of the track is a big player in set up. With Alan's track there is a lot of grip and the car rolled a couple times when run out of the box with only adjusting ride height. I wanted it to slide more not roll so I made sure the rear bearing holes were in the up position. I adjusted the pod movement (tightened) so there was movement of only about 1/2 mm. I then reduced body movement on the chassis to almost none. I trued all the tires and used narrower rear sponge tires adjusted out to the widest it could fit without rubbing the body. The handling was much better on his track, that day.

More pod movement = more grip
More body movement = more grip
Moving the rear bearing hole further down (center or down)= more grip (raising the CG)
Wider rear tire=More grip
Moving the rear tires closer to the chassis (narrowing) = more grip

If you need it to slide more start reversing the above adjustments.

Last edited by zipdrive; 07-31-2015 at 09:19 PM.
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  #11  
Old 05-17-2017, 02:25 PM
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I just got a 512M and there is no booklet in the box. That is why I am looking here for information.
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2017, 06:19 AM
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The 512M is coming along well. My test track is smooth painted MDF. The rear suspension is firm with 1mm of movement. I was a bit upset that the rear didn't have the same bushings as the front but I would think that spares would not be expensive. The Front bushings are actually a little loose in the holders at this time so the axle actually slides up and down a bit like a Slot.it. The shure 20 rear tires are hooking up well. This model came to me fully assembled with the one piece blue inserts. I purchased the foam tires and painted the 917 inserts light blue. I'm looking forward to racing this car locally. The black motor has great power out of the turns. I changed the rear spur from 41 teeth to 42 and turned the 'curve' setting on the Slot.it controller down to 3 to smooth out the throttle response. Love this car. The Porsche next to it is on a Plafit chassis. That is quick as well.

Last edited by rixvette; 05-19-2017 at 06:35 AM.
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2017, 08:26 PM
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Default Video done 2 years ago when the Ferrari 512M came out in kit form.

https://www.facebook.com/643910446/v...5521122375447/

This should take you to my Facebook page where we posted a video build of the Ferrari 512M.
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