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  #16  
Old 03-24-2002, 02:11 PM
Scatman
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Well guys, I think I'm going to buy a power supply. Any tips on hooking up the power supply to a Scalex track? I've downloaded PM schematic for Positive polarity.

Thank
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2002, 03:54 AM
mariodai
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Just solder some wire (16awg or 14awg) to the rails. Making sure you have the polarity set right. Then pull the power from the supply to a connector so that you can plug in your controllers. Better yet, I'll dig up a file that I have @ home and email it to you.

mario-
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  #18  
Old 03-25-2002, 06:58 AM
flyslotter
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Default Power Supplies

Mario, I have read your many posts here and on other boards with interest. When it comes to electricity, you are the man in my book.

A recent shituation (misspelling intended) with one of my Scalextric power bases has given me the itch to upgrade my layout to an aftermarket power supply.

I am looking at spending at $50 on 2 new Scalextric powerbases, which is probably half the cost of a decent power supply, so the economics work for me, to say nothing of the expected performance increase.

This leads to my rookie electrical questions:

I noticed that the Zurich power supply which you and Harry recommend has one black (neg) and one red (pos) terminal on the front.

I have a 2 lane layout, so how should I wire the layout?

Should I solder one black lead to neg on lane 1, and another black lead to neg on lane 2, and then hook both black leads to the black terminal on the power supply (and same setup for the red)?

What guage wire should I use?

Will both lanes get equal/adequate power in this manner?

Should I put a fuse somewhere?

What about booster cables? Can I / Should I run those directly from the power supply, or just tap the track in the usual manner (I have a 118 ft and growing layout)

I appreciate any help you can give me Mario.

You can reply to me at [email protected], [email protected], or you can call me collect on 952.873.3146 if you prefer.

Regards,
Flyslotter
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  #19  
Old 03-25-2002, 07:21 AM
mariodai
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Fly-

I'll get you a response when I get home. I have a good drawing from Larry Geddes. I have som schmatics around here, but converting them to .jpeg is not a consideration. But for a quick and dirty answer (followed up of course with a detailed email) here are some pointers:

1. Wire gauge: This depends on what motors you will be running. If you are staying strictly 1/32nd scale the hungriest motor I've seen is the Falcon. At a portly 800ma you should go with 16AWG or 14AWG. That depends on what is availible to you.

2. If you get the powersupply that Harry is getting, you'll get equal power to both lanes.

3. Yes, a fuse is needed. (more later on location)

Ken-

Do you think an FAQ for tech specs on our little 1/32 beast could be done?

mario-
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2002, 09:56 PM
Tropi UK
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Western shores of the Big Pond seem to have a tremendous choice of good power supplies at a decent price.
But is anyone able to recommend economically priced PSUs available in UK/Europe?
I know some of the US suppliers can produce 220/240 volt versions, still at a fair price, but unfortunately the transport and tax costs to UK are prohibitive.
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  #21  
Old 07-03-2002, 04:34 AM
Brit slot nut
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hello tropi,

I've been down this road in the UK. The best I found was a maplin psu with dual supply 6-20v, but the reason I didn't was the price tag of £120!!
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  #22  
Old 10-28-2007, 05:17 PM
lindseyangell lindseyangell is offline
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Default Power Supply

Try a Pyramid Gold Series PS-26K and you can go from a regulated 6Vdc-15Vdc maxed out 25Amps. Built in Cooling fan, Thermal Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection. What a great DC Regulated Power Supply.
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  #23  
Old 10-28-2007, 05:28 PM
lindseyangell lindseyangell is offline
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Default One Power supply

You can ALWAYS find a Battery from a Car/Truck and run your wires from it. At least you will have a great pure Vdc from it. A decent wall Rheostat like they use on Ceiling fans/lights and you can set your own voltage wherever you want it. Keep it simple!!! Beware that some batteries are NOT sealed and that Battery acid and fumes are VERY Dangerous!
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  #24  
Old 04-11-2009, 04:57 AM
Teamsterjohn Teamsterjohn is offline
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I use a 10 amp 20volt ajustable power supply. I have had it for almost 7 years now and its still works great.
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  #25  
Old 04-11-2009, 03:32 PM
scrjon scrjon is offline
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I use the pyramid the other guy talks about I have a160 foot carrera and use 6 power taps when my 8 year old twin girls race i turn it down half way im adding another lane and i was told that the pyramid could handle a 4lane 160 foot well see but if it dont ill buy another pyramid
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  #26  
Old 10-07-2010, 04:39 PM
CarCrazi CarCrazi is offline
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Default Model Train Power

I keep it simple and relatively low cost and use model train transformers. Works great for my Grandson, lets him keep interest and dial him up as he gets better. In fact it was such a good learning tool for him I no longer need it on the 1:32 track, he has conquered that one. So I now have them on my HO layout.

BTW, I have a power loss on the HO due to it being a large layout. Thought about jumpering power to the farthest section but don't know if that's the best solution. Please holler at me if you have solved a similar problem.

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  #27  
Old 10-21-2010, 10:21 AM
chenglaw chenglaw is offline
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We have a 75-foot long 4-lane Scaley Sport layout for our club track using individual unregulated 14v DC 3amp power supply units. Works well with the motors which we are running (anything from standard S-types to NSR's 30k Sharks and Little Rippers). Ever since we've gone non-mag, the motors have remained cool even during extended runs. We pulled jumpers to 3 sections of the track to overcome power drop. Here's a pic of our track:
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2010, 09:43 AM
RichD RichD is offline
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Some makes of plastic track make better connections than others. I believe that Tomy track is about the best in that regard. Even a continuous rail track will have a slight voltage drop when you get further away from the power taps, with high performance motors and heavy magnets the voltage drop tends to be greater. Some people solder all of the connections, but usually two or three sets of jumpers is good enough. You can buy track sections with power taps already soldered on. You can also add jumpers without soldering. First use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to make a notch in the top of the rail. Drill a small hole on either side of the notch, feed your wire up from the bottom of the track through one hole and back down the other. Twist the wire together on the bottom of the track and you are good to go.
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  #29  
Old 11-08-2013, 12:06 PM
robwright robwright is offline
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Default does this work as a power supply

does this work as a power supply for an HO 4 lane track about 50 foot lap length?

Link removed, please do not post ebay links

Last edited by Scaleracing; 02-06-2014 at 06:35 AM.
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