How to build a Resin Kit
by David Reinecke @ RMS Resins
Step 1: Remove all flashing. Especially around the window areas, wheel wells, and bottom of the
rocker panels, etc. I find using a sanding stick works well. Most hobby stores sell them in various grits and sizes, but in a pinch, a woman's emery board works too.
Step 2: Trial fit all parts. Ensure the bumpers and interior fit properly. Each of these may need some flashing clean-up or minor sanding. Ensure the interior tray fits over the chassis you plan on using.
Step 3: Trial fit the chassis. Once the other parts have been checked out, test fit the chassis and drill the holes for the mounting screws. This is the best time to do this, before you lay any paint that could be damaged if you do so later. Measure and trim any axles if needed to the proper width to fit underneath the body shell. I then like to screw the chassis completely on and take a few laps at this time. This helps ensure that there is no tire rub or other clearance problems. Besides, it is an excuse for track time!
Step 4: Trial fit the glass. This is another important step that seems out of place, however, it is really the best time to do so. Do you really want to paint up your kit, only to find out later that there is more sanding or flashing that needs to be dealt with? I didn't think so. Glass is often a finicky part. I find it easiest to trim the part carefully, continually refitting it to check for alignment. Go slowly. It also helps to cut it down to the center rib if so equipped. This means there is less glass attaching to the roof, and can make the windows fit that much better. In some cases, such as on my Datsun 510 kit, even though the quarter glass has been molded together with the front windshield and rear glass, the best way to fit it is to completely remove the quarter glass and install each part separately.
Step 5: Rough up the body. I like to use 0000 Steel Wool to rub the body and parts down. This gives the primer something to “bite” into. Sometimes resin is a little too smooth and can cause problem with paint adhesion. This usually won't show up until you are masking a two-toned car, remove the tape, and pull up paint and primer. In lieu of Steel Wool, 1500 grit sand paper works, however be careful you do not remove trim, etc. I blow off or rinse off all parts when done.
Step 6: Wash the resin parts. I really recommend using Wesley's Bleech White if you can. While I use a paint able release agent, I have seen issues with fish eyes in the painting stage if the parts have not been properly cleaned. I like to soak my parts for a few hours, rinse in cold water and then wash with standard dish soap. After a thorough rinsing, I place them on a towel to dry.
Step 7: Prime the parts. It is very important to get a good base down for the remaining paint work to be done. I use Duplicolor Automotive Spray Paint, however, many other paints such as Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol, etc. are available. Just be sure to get one that is compatible with the type of paint you are planning to use, such as Lacquer or Enamel. I spray all sides to each part and let dry according to manufacturer's recommendations. The great thing about the Duplicolor paints is that they dry very quickly. I can usually handle a primed part in about 15-30 minutes.
Step 8: Paint the parts. At this time I also paint and detail the interior tray.
Step 9: Decal the parts. I use decals from
www.slotcars4u.net on my kits. These decals are very strong and well made. They are also researched extensively and are not a generic decals for a car. Tim Millward is the gentleman that does these decals and he takes some serious pride in his work. He utilizes an ALPS printer that produces amazingly decals. He coats his decals in Future to ensure you'll have a trouble-free installation. He also includes fabulous instructions that include some of the history of the car you are modeling.
Step 10: Final Detail. At this stage, adding trim paint around windows, vents, windshield wipers, and gas caps is a good idea if you are painting them. This way, the final clear coat will protect these areas. If you are using Bare Metal Foil, I recommend not doing so until after the clear coat, as it tends to fog and dull if you coat it.
Step 11: Clear Coat. I can really only recommend one clear coat – Future. It has changed names
several times. I have a Tip & Tricks article elsewhere on my site about how to use it. A great Internet resource has surfaced that describes the different branding of this product. Check it out:
www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Step 12: Glass Assembly. I like to use a low-heat glue gun to glue my glass in. You only need to
apply a very small amount, usually down the center of the rib. If the bottom, sides, or quarter window glass need gluing or extra strength, I like to use a clear drying craft glue like Elmer's white glue to do so. A good applicator is a normal toothpick, allowing you to put a very small amount on at a time. Elmer's also cleans up easily with water later if you accidentally place it somewhere visible. Be sure to allow the parts to dry depending on your installation method.
Step 13: Interior Assembly. Again, I usually like to use a low-heat glue gun to glue my interior trays in. They are easy to remove later if needed. Only a little dab is needed, don't empty the gun or cover each seam of the tray as it is not necessary, and only makes later disassembly difficult.
Step 14: Chassis Assembly. Screw the chassis assembly to the completed and assembled body shell. Be sure to check for proper fit and that the tires spin freely inside the wheel wells and that the guide blade is able to rotate properly.
Step 15: Race it! All of my cars see the track. I don't build cars to be shelf queens and believe that if I've spent this much time building something I want, I should at least take the time to run it. Remember, this is still a toy.
Some Resin Kit FAQ's:
How do I remove a “twist” in a part?
● Run the part under warm water and manipulate it. It moves pretty easily, however, don't use hot
water or it will completely deform.
How do I fill a pinhole?
● Pinholes do happen, even when casting resin under pressure, as I do. Any filler will work, but I
like to use CA glue and Top Flite Microballoons Filler, however you can use CA glue and
baking soda just as easily.
Why does the glass look slightly “fogged”?
● I've not been able to get perfect glass yet, but I'm still working on it!
Why does the glass not fit properly?
● A glass “buck” for vac-forming is created that fits the body shell. When vac-forming glass over
a buck, you are making the glass slightly larger as it fits over the buck. Therefore, some extra
trimming and planning is necessary.
How to build a resin kit
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