Lowes sells Rustoleum Magnetic Latex Primer in quart cans for $20. From what I have read in the forums, I believe is offers a bit of downward force, perhaps 10%. I put 4 coats down, but I really don't have any experience with it. I am hoping that it helps control the cars a bit.
I weighed the track without the control panel and it weighs 70 lbs, this is after adding almost 5 coats of paint, of which 4 coats is the heavy magnetic paint.
Thanks for the reply! As I am about to embark on my 2nd routed track, I'm very eager to hear how the "magnetic" paint works...please let us all know your thoughts as soon as you have a chance to test it.
Thanks,
David
Quote:
Originally Posted by averacpa
Hi David,
Lowes sells Rustoleum Magnetic Latex Primer in quart cans for $20. From what I have read in the forums, I believe is offers a bit of downward force, perhaps 10%. I put 4 coats down, but I really don't have any experience with it. I am hoping that it helps control the cars a bit.
I'll be using UR 3.0 which not only will time the cars, but work in conjunction with the call button to stop the timer instead of using the mouse in case the car de-slots. I have used it with my Carrera track with no problem. I also hooked up the call button to a relay to stop the power, but in retrospect, that was not necessary since I am operating a single lane. However, it could help as an emergency power off in case of a short.
I am still waiting on the LCD volt meter which I will install in the control panel (the penciled rectangle in the top middle of the panel above the fuses). It will let me know what voltage is coming in. I found that the analog volt meter on the Pyramid PS 32 Lab is not accurate when tested against my hand held meter. I will also be painting the control panel black shortly.
1) I finally laid the tape down and it went pretty well. On the second day, several areas on the tape loosen from the paint and I had to re-burnish it. I have not had any more problems with the tape. I attributed that to the humidity and heat in my garage (South Florida has been very hot lately) and that the paint may still be degassing.
2) Still working out the power connections. I followed the method by Luf, but I may have added too much solder as there is a slight bump. The cars run fine, but on certain cars, the "1mm bump" has a greater effect on the car as the guide taps the connection. The only car having the most problem with it is the Scalextric Ferrari P4. I may drill a small slot where the solder is and run the connection underneath the track.
3) My greatest concern is the friction. The Slot.It cars behave fairly well, but the tires on my Scalextric cars (Ferrari P4 and Ford GT IV) seem to vibrate loudly on the curves. These cars do not slide smoothly, but makes a rubbing noise as the tires grip and release in a pulsing manner as it negotiates the turn (the cars are stock).
I wonder if any one knows if there is a before and after modification video on how cars perform on a wood track. The only standard that I can go by is Carrera track with magnets. It would be nice to see what how a typical car performs without any tiring turning, weight, etc. and the effect each change has.
Right now I am trying to determine which tire compound works best and how much weight to add to improve control. The Ninco rubber tires seem to work well as does the Slot.It S2. The Indy Grips, Scalextric and the K&D tires not as well, little grip. Although most of my cars do not have any added weight, I suspect that as I tinker with each car, their performance will improve.
4) I am also working on the scenery. Slowly stapling the mesh and layering a single layer Rigid Wrap to be strengthen with paper towels covered in Plaster of Paris.
I have now finished the control panel adding the LCD volt meter and painting the whole thing black. This works like a charm!
I have also finished adding the first layer of Rigid Wrap. Now I have to finish the track edging where it is a little rough. One lesson I learned from this is when using aluminum screen mesh, you need to give an additional inch of width on the track wherever the mesh is going to be stapled. I gave it a 1/2 inch and cut the mesh close to where the staple is. This causes the mesh end metal fibers to poke up and or out through the Rigid Wrap requiring extensive minute cutting of those pointy ends to smooth it out. Having more spacing would allow for the mesh to lay flat with less cutting. Perhaps another way would have been to staple from below, but in some areas it would have been impossible to reach.
To the left of the yellow control tower is going to be the pond. The rest of the scenery will be rocks, grass, and trees which I am starting to make. Since the track is quite small, and I wanted to add the buildings I had made for my Carrera track, I mounted a removable platform to the left of the control station so I can add the pit and press room building. It will be sort of a diorama that I simply bolt on/off to allow for storage of the layout.
Looks like your doin' it right to me
Black crinkle paint on the control box....cool.
Good job on the "terrain" I didn't enjoy that part on our track;screen made finger pokies,ouchee.
Have fun painting,thats where you get to really be artsy
The black paint is actually a semi-gloss spray paint and not crinkle paint. What you see are just the highlights off the camera's flash. It is a fairly smooth finish.
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