I have to be honest, i don't think much of the livery compared to the Fly offerings but i do like the thought that its a bit bigger, i've read that the Fly trucks are only 75mm tall which sounds a bit out of scale.
I'm sorry to have grabbed your thread like this as this isn't a Fly truck.
Truck threads seem a little thin on the ground if you get my meaning.
I had twom SCX trucks,they are very under powered compared to the Fly and not finished as well,BUT I only payed $20.00 AUD each for them new. Later sold them off for a small profit.
If the SCX trucks are bigger, the probably are in true 1/32. The Fly trucks are sort of 1/35, I think. If they have old SCX motors they must be VERY slow, but that could be upgraded. Wheels and tires could be a problem.
If the SCX trucks are bigger, the probably are in true 1/32. The Fly trucks are sort of 1/35, I think. If they have old SCX motors they must be VERY slow, but that could be upgraded. Wheels and tires could be a problem.
Whilst I am not entering this proxy at this time, I have been reading thru the threads and following with some interest. One thing that occurs to me, after this last round on motors is...how much is being demanded of those poor little contrates. Considering how much mass there is in the truck with ballast, then coupling up a monster big torque boxer, and torturing the whole lot for months on end. Was I to do this, I might be tempted to err on the side of caution, and set up the back end with stoppers,adjusted to a nicety, and use a moderate motor.....then hope like h....
Dr. Diff, One of the racers on this forum made a parallel between the trucks and 1/24 scale OOTB.
This reminds me, that because there seems to be no restriction on gears except for clearance, you could shim down a 3mm contrate of robust design e.g Plafit, with tube, wedges, epoxy etc, on to a flatted 1/32 axle, Loctite or solder your pinions and probably not have to worry about it at all. Perhaps it might restrict ratio choices.
There are plenty of Slot.It endurance cars that survive for long periods of non-stop running with 300+ gcm, 20k+, 15+ watt-output motors, in 85 gram cars, while we are only using 200 gcm, 15k, 7.5 watt-output motors, in 150 gram trucks, on average. The power to weight ratio is in our favor: the Slot.It endurance car is using .18 watts per gram, while the trucks are using only .05 watts per gram. This should result in lower gear stresses for our trucks.
Chris Briggs built some very heavey cars (over 160 grams) using 64 pitch gears and they survived up to ten rounds of the WPR. My light weight (140 gram) cars only ever used plastic gears with no problems.
If the SCX trucks are bigger, the probably are in true 1/32. The Fly trucks are sort of 1/35, I think. If they have old SCX motors they must be VERY slow, but that could be upgraded. Wheels and tires could be a problem.
Off topic update:
I've got hold of the dimensions for the truck,
Wheels/tyres are 27.4mm overall diameter and 10mm width.
O/a height 88mm, length 160mm, width 69.5mm.
So i guess i'd have the same wheel and tire choices as you guys.
R.L , I accept that your figures are probably correct, but are focused on the capacity to achieve a level of performance. My original point, poorely expressed as it was, concerns the load on an inefficient gear design, loosely coupled in a somewhat "elastic" fashion in flexible chassis rails.
Whereas with Phil's cars, even though at times on the heavy side, they are none the less built with rigid and strongly boxed gearsets, and adjusted for minimum play.
Of course you are right. With the flexible gear cage or rear axle to motor aspect of the Fly trucks, all bets are off. I expect they will eat gears unless the axle to motor area is braced properly.
Dr. Diff, One of the racers on this forum made a parallel between the trucks and 1/24 scale OOTB.
This reminds me, that because there seems to be no restriction on gears except for clearance, you could shim down a 3mm contrate of robust design e.g Plafit, with tube, wedges, epoxy etc, on to a flatted 1/32 axle, Loctite or solder your pinions and probably not have to worry about it at all. Perhaps it might restrict ratio choices.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Livingston
There are plenty of Slot.It endurance cars that survive for long periods of non-stop running with 300+ gcm, 20k+, 15+ watt-output motors, in 85 gram cars, while we are only using 200 gcm, 15k, 7.5 watt-output motors, in 150 gram trucks, on average. The power to weight ratio is in our favor: the Slot.It endurance car is using .18 watts per gram, while the trucks are using only .05 watts per gram. This should result in lower gear stresses for our trucks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haystack
R.L , I accept that your figures are probably correct, but are focused on the capacity to achieve a level of performance. My original point, poorely expressed as it was, concerns the load on an inefficient gear design, loosely coupled in a somewhat "elastic" fashion in flexible chassis rails.
Whereas with Phil's cars, even though at times on the heavy side, they are none the less built with rigid and strongly boxed gearsets, and adjusted for minimum play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Livingston
Of course you are right. With the flexible gear cage or rear axle to motor aspect of the Fly trucks, all bets are off. I expect they will eat gears unless the axle to motor area is braced properly.
Okay you guys lost me! Anyone have a pic! They say a picture is worth a thousand words! Care to share the rear axle to motor bracing? Regards Gene
With regards to the original post asking how we have tuned our trucks...
I bought a few of these with the goal of having some slot cars with a completely new driving experience not simply just another slot car that is huge. To that end I wanted them to have the following characteristics:
1) accelerate slower
2) poor breaking
3) sketchy handling
Basically a slot car that 'feels heavy' when driven
To achieve that I did the following:
1) Replaced the rear end with a 9/28 slot.it for smoother running and durability
2) Added 40g of weight up front to help keep the slot down and reduce acceleration and breaking
3) Removed the magnets
4) Trued the tires the best I could
5) Coated the front tires with clear nail polish to help them navigate the few R1s I have (also helps a bit on the R2s)
The result is a set of trucks that are fun and challenging to drive and are nothing like all my other cars.