That is exactly right. I set up a rotary drum sander in a lathe so the meeting velocity and heat was low, because the drum rotated in the same direction as the tire, but about five times the speed. It worked great with the rougher abrasive drum against Ortmann tires. They were way out of round but trued perfectly, very fast. Then I bought a diamond coated drum for smoother work, and haven't tried it out.
Though I haven't seen this problem with my truer that has a sanding block, you are counting on the block being flat and square. The Tyre True allows you move the tires left and right which seems to "share" the load on the sandpaper. I even flip the sanding block around just to be sure everything is the same. So far no difference that I can measure with my dial calipers.
The Slot Technology truer has the counter rotating drum and you can move the wheel(s) left and right while they are being trued. It seems to true my tires at about the same speed as the Tyre True. The only real difference between the two is the Slot Technology Truer seems to like a bit more amps.
My head says that the spinning drum (by spinning the drum you avoid any high or low spots) should be able to produce a more accurate tire, I just can't measure the difference. Both of these are EXCELLENT truers.
Last edited by TransIssues; 01-07-2010 at 09:11 PM.
I had been looking for a RSM for a long long time. Then the Tyre True came out, same basic design, plus the cool color.
Did you do ok? You did great. I think you'll find that if you want, the RSM will work great on sillies. Amazing what some low number grit sandpaper will do to a pair of tires. Than you just take your time polishing the tires with some pretty high number wet/dry paper. I keep a little bowel of water next to the truer and just dip my fingers in and then coat the tires if they start to get warm.
I have a Hudy and I am quite happy with it. However: I really miss the ability to true tyres "on the axle": would be a great help for press-on knurled wheels that you do not want to or cannot remove from the axle.
Originally Posted by Pinto_Girl
It sounds like silicones are difficult to true, period(?)
Van, what happens when you try to true silicones? Do they just get really hot and gummy, without actually being sanded down much?
Power supply is 0-20 volts, 10 amps, trusting that will be sufficient.
I used SuperTires on BWA wheels for both my CanAM proxy entries. This was my first ever exposure to silicones. The wheels and tyres were a slight mismatch, leading to deformation of the surface of the tyre, hence I had to remove quite a bit of material to get them properly flat. Probably sacrilege for most Hudy owners (and I ran the risk of running the tyres on a taper), but I ran the wheels reasonably slowly and used some sandpaper on a (flat) file applied to the tyres by hand. This worked great. I just applied approximately zero pressure and took my time. Started off with 220 grit, finished with 1000: ended up with a good smooth surface.
I use a Pyramid power supply with my Hudy and typically do not run it at more than 6V. I do not really see it go over a couple amps, so 10A should be fine. I believe if you run a current greater than a couple of amps you are probably going too fast.
I do not believe you will regret this purchase: a good piece of equipment brings much pleasure and improves your cars. Enjoy it!!
I had been on the RSMII waiting list for almost three years. When the Tyre True had been announced on SF I logged onto Overdrive's web site to see what they had and noticed that the RSMII was finally in stock so I pushed the 'go' button.
I went with the RSMII since I have a lot of cars in my collection (400+) and I have no intention of converting them all to set screw wheels. The HUDY is more of a precision machine by comparison but will not acommodate stock axle assemblies. The rotating sanding surface on it seems better suited to difficult-to-sand tires like silicones.
Well, worst comes to worst, another year of no new slot cars, save the money, buy the Hudy, too...
My stable is really small. I have only 11 cars that run regularly, plus the two proxy racers I'm working on, plus maybe a half dozen that have a few laps on them but haven't been tuned and won't be 'till the track has guard rails.
Some have set-screw wheels and others don't, which was my thinking behind the purchase of the RSM II, since it will accommodate either type.
Then again, I run silicone tires exclusively, which seems to point towards the Hudy...
I am yet to se the perfect tyre truer. I have an NSR truer which is supposedly the ducks nuts of truers which has a disc that rotates in one direction and an axle that has the hub spin and hit the disc. It has a screw setting thing that lets yous set the tyre at the exact truing point so the next one is trued to the same height. Also has a function to run the "rubber" tyres against each other for soaking or "treating" as we call it. However it seems a little flawed as you still have to true each tyre individually when there seems no reason that a greater axle length couldnt have been implemented to allow both be done simultaneously. I have a poor record in truing silicones ruining the only ones i have tried and i am not looking forward to the next attempt. My bet is if you run sillies get the hudy as there seems to be a good record of guys that use it and get great results with that style of tyre.
So, the machine arrived and on the second attempt, I trued successfully my first set of (rubber) tires!!
Good times, the set before that (try #1) was so much fun that I ended up sanding the tires down almost to the hubs. It's so cool, seeing those rubber particles accumulate. Feels very pro.
That set of trued rear tires is going to New Zealand, along with a Slot.it Alfa, for the Auslot CanAm Proxy Race. How it'll run on those super smooth tracks is a complete mystery to me, but at least I'll be pretty sure it's not out of true tires causing the problem.
Have you priced out urethane tires for your fleet lately? I'll bet that you could get a set for every car you have and still come out spending less than you would buying a Hudy. Plus, you could probably run stock wheels/axles as opposed to an additional $30/car spent on wheels, gears, axles and bushings. YMMV.