Hey Gents has anybody ever installed the sisp11 Slot it light kit. It looks pretty straight forward except for the digital board and plug type adapter. The car i have has not been fitted from the factory with lights so it has no plug. Would the lights still work if i was to cut of the digital board and hook the lights directly. Robert
This gets a little complicated. The SP11 is just the lights and plug, you may need the SP10 base module as well. You could have bought the SP06 kit that has both the lights and base module. With analog cars the voltage at the track rails is always changing and the base module will keep the lights from flickering and they will even stay lit for a while after the car has stopped. As a bonus the tail lights brighten for an instant when you hit the brakes. In the case of digital tracks the rails are at full voltage all the time, so you could just hook the lights up ahead of the digital module. If you were to do that the lights would instantly burn out because they need to run at about 2 volts. You could install dropping resistors to bring the voltage down to a safe level, you would need to do some cutting and splicing and some soldering as well. There is a light kit (SP16) for digital cars but it looks like you would need to do some soldering to attach the leads to the board.
as Rich says,
SP10 + SP11 = SP06 (but the SP06 are currently unavailable from Slot.it, pending re-manufacture early this year)
So SP11 is only part of a kit. It should be used with an SP10 "base", or can be fitted to a car body, where an existing car chassis has the base part of an SP06 fitted.
As a best practice, I prefer to fit the base part of the kit (SP10) to the chassis of the car, and wire it to the motor end of the lead wires, as this makes it easier to change braids, and the wires do not interfere with the movement of the guide, or possibly wear then break due to continual lateral movements.
I fit the lights to the car (SP11 part), then carefully attach the module plug when I fit the body.
This also makes it easier to do tuning and maintenance work on the rolling chassis.
Alternately, some people have fitted the entire unit including lights into the chassis, by modifying the boda in the area around the lights so the car body drops cleanly over the lights without touching - but that causes light bleed, and is difficult to manage on some cars.
The third way, depending upon body space, is to mount the entire unit to the BODY, not the chassis, and run the power wires for the kit down to a tiny connector which plugs into it's opposite, mounted on the chassis.
Thanks guys for the info, however i guess i should have been more givish with the info on what i was trying to do. I am trying to hook the lights to a Ninco Digital Car. I have yet to connect the lights to power yet. I didn't now that the Slot-it lights were only 2 volts or only required 2 volts. My plan , if possable, was to run the light kit off the Ninco digital chip installed in the car and just use the Ninco digital chip light connections.Could this be done without cooking the lights ? Thanks Again Robert
SlotNZ I was just wondering where you got the info about the light kits getting re-manufactured (sp06). I am waiting for them to come in for our 24 hour race and if that is the case I may need to get some light kits else where.
I understood the part about putting the lights in a digital car. If you just want to use the lights that you have it probably would be easier to clip the wires from the board and put dropping resistors between the lights and the voltage source. It is best to connect where the wires from the guide flag do not move to avoid having a wire break. As I said this gets complicated because I am not sure exactly what the operating voltage and current draw of the LEDs are. The operating voltage for the white and red lights could well be different. White LEDs run at 3-3.5 volts and red LEDs run at 2 volts. My best guess is 3 volts for the white LEDs and 2 volts for the red LEDs. You need to know the amp draw for each LED. LEDs of this sort use 20-30 milliamps each. I also don't know the track voltage for the Ninco digital system. You could wire the white lights in series with a resistor also in series and do the same thing with the red LEDs. Lower power LEDs use 20 ma each and you need to use that number to calculate the right resistor values. The calculation is simple enough, but there are a lot of online calculators available, do a Google search for LED calculator. Here is a simple one: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz . When LEDs are wired in series the amp value that you plug into the calculator is the one for a single LED. The voltage across the LEDs in series will be the sum of the drops for the individual LEDs. You need to put in a diode forward voltage of 6 volts for two white leds in series, which the wizard does not like but it does give a value of 470 ohms. The actual value is 400 ohms, 470 is the next highest standard value. For two red LEDs in series (4 volts total) the calculated value is 500 ohms and 560 ohms is the available resistor. You should measure the actual track voltage and use that value.
If all of this sounds too complicated just get the base module! Good luck.
Thanks Rich, the lights i have were given to me , so the investment isn't a big deal. I just thought, (silly me )that the lights would be 12 volts. The lights are now wired together (2 tail lights) (2 headlights) .The easiest way would be for me, at this point would be to find out what voltage the Ninco chip has coming out of it were you connect Ninco lights to. The Digital chip might allready be setup for the lower voltage connection. Robert
Ninco has a good light kit, but that is designed for analog cars and is similar to the Slot.it kit. I don't know if there are any lighted digital Ninco cars, if there are there might also be a light kit for them which would have to include dropping resistors, but not the regulator and storage capacitor. I am not certain that any digital car that has lights uses the digital module to drop the voltage. If that was the case the module would have fixed output connections for the lights and variable output connections for the motor.