Just got the new Silk Cut XJR9 in and found that they have decals covering the Silk Cut sponsorship. After some of the problems with the Rothmanns Porsches I decided to open some and remove the decals to see what would happen. Good News! The decals came off with no problems or damage to the tampo printing. I used scotch tape, lightly burnished to the surface and pulled straight up, everything came off with just a few applications of tape. The decals are located on the nose, wing and on the sides of the car, the photo shows the before and after the decal removal.
I removed the decals from 5 cars (per customers request) and all had zero problems.
Thought you guys would get a kick out of seeing what came in today!
The new Slot.IT Silk Cut Jag!
Pictured here with the original SCX Silk Cut and a Scaley Castrol.
I took my Ninco master track over to a friends house last weekend and set it up and let his kids race on it while we watched the Ohio State football game. Judging by the land speed records they were trying set I surmised that no child would ever get within ten yards of my Slot-It cars.
Anyone else having a problem with the XJR9 front axle rubbing on the body post? The first 2 I've opened have had this problem, though none of the Castrol-liveried ones seem to have been affected, oddly enough.
The "non-tobacco" decals over the Silk Cut markings are done much better than the original 2000 of the Rothmans 956 sets -- the "real" markings are clear-coated, THEN the phony-baloney markings are filmed over. The trick is to cover as much of the "phoney-baloney" markings with one piece of 3M transparent tape as possible, burnish the tape COMPLETELY (very much like doing letra-set dry-transfer lettering or decals), but with a fairly light hand -- you DON'T have to bear down on it with a ham fist -- then quickly strip the 3M tape away. In most cases, the entire over-film will come off in one piece. If it doesn't, just re-burnish the remaining film with a clean piece of tape, or pick out the stray pieces with a fairly soft tool -- a toothpick frayed at the end, or a paper-stick Q-Tip broken off. If you use anything sharp, like an X-Acto blade, you stand an excellent chance of buggering the real markings.